Knitting and some more - free patterns

Purple baby hat

2011-03-11T11:51:00.005+01:00

Yarn: baby wool or any other yarn you might want to use
Needles: use needles that matches the yarn
Hook: same size as the needles

1. CO 96 st.
2. Knit 2 cm of k2, p2
3. Put a marker at the start of the round, k48, put in another marker
4. k2, purl 2 together, *k2, p2* until 2 st before the marker, purl 2 together, (marker), k2, purl 2 together, *k2, p2* until 2 st before marker, purl 2 together (marker)
5. *k2, p2* the entire round
6. Decrease like before, but make sure your decreases matches the pattern (I purl together or knit together, whatever looks best)
7. Knit one round of *k2, p2* between every round of decreases, until you have 8 st left
8. Either knit 1 cm with the 8 st, or pull a thread through the 8 stitches right away

Use a hook to make laces on each side of the hat (or knit an icord if you'd like)..

This is all written down in a hurry, so please keep in mind if there's anything strange going on in the pattern ;)

If you'd like a bigger hat: CO more stitches (needs to be divided on 4) or use thicker yarn!

Potholders

2009-03-27T23:06:00.008+01:00

Single thread

You need:
Cotton yarn (potholders gets filty with food = needs to be washed in hot water)
A hook that goes with the yarn (read the label that comes with the yarn)
A needle (to weave in ends)
A pair of scissors (to cut the tread)

Use either thick yarn, or double thread of thinner yarn (odd English = translated directly from Norwegian..)

Pattern (in UK terms. I think):
Ch 6, join to form a ring.
1. ch 3 to make first tremble, work 13 more tr in the ring; join with a sl to the top of the beginning (14 tr)
2. ch 3, make 2 tr in every tr from the last round(28 tr); join
3. ch 3, 2 tr in the next stitch, *1 tr in the next, 2 tr in the next* continue all the way around; join 4. ch 3, 1 tr in the next stitch, 2 tr in the next, *2 tr in the next 2 stiches, 2 tr in the next*; join
5. ch 3, 2 tr in the next 2 stitches, 2 tr in the next, *3 tr in the next 3 stitches, 2 tr in the next*; join
6. make 7 rounds of increasing in the same way

Make the border:
Make a chain stitch in one of the st from the last round, skip 2 st, *make 3 tr into the next st, ch 1, 3 tr into the the same st as the last 3 st, skip 2 st, make 1 slip stitch* Keep on working like this, until you've finished the round..
Before cutting the yarn, ch 10 and make a slip stitch into the last st (forms the loop for hanging).
Weave in all ends.

Thinner yarn, held double

Colourful cotton bag :)

2009-03-11T17:37:00.008+01:00

Yarn: different kinds of cotton yarn (should be about the same gauge, though)
Hook: one that goes with the yarn. I used 3,5 mm

Pattern:
Ch 6, join to form a ring.
1. ch 3 to make first tremble, work 13 more tr in the ring; join with a sl to the top of the beginning (14 tr)
2. ch 3, make 2 tr in every tr from the last round(28 tr); join
3. ch 3, 2 tr in the next stitch, *1 tr in the next, 2 tr in the next* continue all the way around; join 4. ch 3, 1 tr in the next stitch, 2 tr in the next, *2 tr in the next 2 stiches, 2 tr in the next*; join
5. ch 3, 2 tr in the next 2 stitches, 2 tr in the next, *3 tr in the next 3 stitches, 2 tr in the next*; join
6. make 7 rounds of increasing in the same way

It should look like this.. :)

7. ch 3, make one tr in each tr all the way around (still using white yarn), but crochet only through the back loop. This makes an edge between the base and the body of the bag..
8. Keep repeating the last round (through both loops, though) until you have the hight that you want. Changing between different stitches (single crochet/double crochet/trebles, whatever they are called) gives you a chance to use most of your scrap yarn..
9. the shortest scraps can be used to make slip stitch rows after the bag is done (or you can use them on the handle)..

the finished bag..

10. I made the handle by crocheting a 85 cm long chain, which I crocheted trebles into
11. then I used different yarn and crocheted single crochet along both sides of the trebles. I keept doing this until the handle was wide enough (unclear? Look at the photos). Use small leftovers if you like..

I used an old buckle at the handle, and a small button that makes sure the handle stays on even if the buckle slips.. Brown yarn and some trebles was all I needed to make the buckle stay in place. I attached the handle on the other side of the bag, using lots of yarn and even some cross stitches (mostly for fun)..

It might be a good idea to put fabric inside the bag, and maybe a pocket or two? ;)

Photographer mittens

2008-08-10T11:45:00.007+02:00

Use 5 dpn's, and sport weight yarn.

The right mitten:
1. CO 40, knit 2, purl 2 for 20 rounds
2. Knit all stitches for 20 rounds
3. Knit 21 stitches, knit 8 more st and put these 8 on a safety pin, knit 11 st. **
On the next round: knit all st until you reach the 8 st at the safety pin, CO 8 new st above the thumb hole (the 8 st on the safety pin), and continue knitting all stitches for the rest of the round
4. Knit all st for 7 rounds
5. Knit 21 st, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, knit all remaining st on this round. Do this round twice more
6. Knit 23 st, BO 7 st(hole for the index finger), knit all remaining st
7. Knit 23 st, CO 7 st, knit all remaining st
8. Knit 21 st, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, knit all remaining st on this round. Do this round twice more
9. Knit until 30 rounds from the thumb hole(or more/less after trying it on)
10. Knit 1, k2tog, knit until 3 st left on second needle, ssk, k1. K1, k2tog, knit until 3 st left on fourth needle, ssk, k1. Keep doing this until you have 2 st on each needle, pull the thread through the st, and pull tight. Or you could stop at 3 st at each needle, and craft them together(like I did)..
11. Optional: crochet chain stitches around the index finger hole with some leftover yarn to make it fit better/not end up to big after some use. Make sure the hole is still big enough ;)

Left mitten: Mirror the right one, but leave out the hole for the index finger :)

** Another way of doing the thumb hole: Knit as described until 3. When you reach the thumb hole, instead of knitting 8 st and putting them on a safety pin, you could knit in some waste yarn in a different colour as followed: knit 8 st with the waste colour yarn, put the stitches back on the needle you just knitted them off. Knit the same 8 st once more, but this time with the main colour yarn, knit 11 stitches and continue the pattern at 4.

When you've finished the mitten and starts on the thumb, remove the waste yarn and pick up the stitches and put them on 4 needles. Knit the thumb as described underneat..

Thumbs:
1. Pick up 8 st at the back of the thumb and put these on two needles
2. Put the 8 st on the safety pin on two needles as well, and knit in the round until the thumb is long enough. Try it on as you knit (I use 18 rounds)
3. BO by knitting the two first st on each needle together. When 2 st left on each needle, pull the thread through all the remaining st and pull tight..

Weave in all ends, and you’re done..

Pink socks with an afterthought heel

2008-02-24T19:43:00.010+01:00

I used Silja/Ida sockyarn from Gjestal(26 st = 10 cm/4"), and 3 mm needles.

Size lady(medium).

1. Co 64 stitches. Knit 10 rounds with knit 1, purl 1.

2. Next round: knit 3, purl 1. Keep knitting like this(making stripes as you go along) until you find it long enough(14 cm or so)

3. Knit in a contrast yarn on the first two needles(over 32 st). Make sure you knit alle stitches, no purling here, as this will be under the foot!

4. Go back and reknit these needles with the main yarn, and keep knitting as before(except from under the foot, there will still only bee stockinette stitches here)

5. When the sock is long enough for your foot, make a toe(use your usual one, or take a look at mine at the bottom of this post).

6. Go back to make the heel. Carefully remove the contrast yarn, and put it on 4 needles. I usually try to make it 32 over and 32 under the foot

7. Knit one round while adding two extra stitches on either side of the heel

8. Knit as if to make a toe. When 8 stitches left, either pull the thread through the remaining stitches or use a kitchener bind off.

9. Weave in the ends, and make a second sock! :)

If you want one left sock and one right sock, you mirror the pattern above for the second sock. I usually do that.. ;)

My standard toe for socks like these:

Round 1: Work to 3 sts from end of needle #1, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk at beginning of needle #2. Work to 3 sts from end of needle #3, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk at beginning of needle #4, work to end.

Round 2: Work even (knit all sts).

Repeat the last 2 rounds until there are 6 sts on each needle. Work Round 1 (the decrease round) only until there are 8 sts remaining, 2 sts on each needle. Pull the tread through all the stitches an pull tight. Weave in ends!

Knit the heel the same way, but remember to pick up 2 extra stitches like the pattern above asks for(to prevent holes between instep and heel).

Good luck, and happy knitting! :)

Fingerless mittens...

2007-12-02T01:54:00.003+01:00

I found this idéa in an old Norwegian crafting magazine from the '70s. Knitting the gloves is easy and don't take long.

If you're new to embroidery, don't make to much out of it.. sometimes less is better! I used about 5 hours to embroidery the black mittens. The green ones took some time too, but not nearly as much! If you'd like to take a better look at the stitches I used, take a look at my Flickr site.. :)

Yarn: Artic by Gjestal(1,5 skeins)
Yarn gauge: 16 st = 10 cm (4") on needle 5-6 mm
Needles: 3, 5 mm dpn's (this makes the gloves thick and firm = easy to embroidery on)
Size: Lady

If you don't have yarn with the same gauge, use something else. The pattern will work with any yarn, but you might have to adjust the number of stitches and rounds to make it fit your hand.

Pattern(left glove):
1. co 32 stitches. Purl 1, knit 1 for 15 rounds.
2. knit stockinette stitches for 15 rounds.
3. knit waste yarn into the first 8 stitches(the first needle). Go back and reknit this needle with the main colour. Keep knitting the rest of the round.
4. knit 11 rounds in stockinette stitches. Bind off all 32 st.
5. remove the waste yarn from the tumb. There should be 8 st in front, and 7 st behind the tumb. Put the st on 4 needles and knit 10 rounds of stockinette st. Bind off.
6. Weave in all ends

Make the right glove in the same way. But make sure to put the tumb on the 8 last st of the round(instead of the 8 first).

Embroidery:
I've used different kind of stitches(and I don't really know their English names).. :)
The biggest flowers are made from crocheted circles, and I applied them by using single chainstitches(the Norwegian term, correct me if I'm wrong). Some of the smaller flowers are mille fleurs(single chainstitches put together in a group). French knots, and (the ones most common in stitchery?)..

Start with the biggest flowers and attatch them with the chainstitches. Put in smaller flowers and french knots, and finish of with green leaves and other green parts of the flowers(ugh.. my English really past out here...)

Looking at this scan might help, even though the writing is in Norwegian. Sorry about my English here! Hope it makes some sense. Feel free to comment the correct terms in English, I would very much like to know!! :)

Monster hat ;D

2007-12-02T01:45:00.000+01:00

Lurking around on other peoples blogs makes me more creative.. Meretes blog (monstermønster), gave me an idea when it came to decorate my new crochet hat ;) Taking a picture of it was hard, though.. *lol*

I used Trysilgarn from Europris(worsted weigh), and a 3,5 mm hook.
Size: adult

The pattern:
Ch 6, join to form a ring.
1. ch 2 to make first tremble, work 13 more tr in the ring; join with a sl to the top of the beginning (14 tr)
2. ch 2, make 2 tr in every tr from the last round(28 tr); join
3. ch 2, 2 tr in the next stitch, *1 tr in the next, 2 tr in the next* continue all the way around; join
4. ch 2, 1 tr in the next stitch, 2 tr in the next, *2 tr in the next 2 stiches, 2 tr in the next*; join
5. ch 2, 2 tr in the next 2 stitches, 2 tr in the next, *3 tr in the next 3 stitches, 2 tr in the next*; join
6. ch 2, 5 tr in the next 5 stiches, 2 tr in the next stitch, *6 tr in the next 6 stitches, 2 tr in the next stitch*; join
7-? ch 2, 1 tr in every stitch(tr) from the last round, keep on working until the hat is long enough!

Use leftovers to make monster on the front of the hat(or a flower if that suits you better) ;)

Bea's flower square

2007-12-02T01:25:00.001+01:00

Ch 5; join with a sl to the first ch to form a ring
Round 1: ch 2 to make the first treble, work 11 more tr in the ring; join with a sl to the top of the beginning. (12 tr).
Round 2: ch 3, 1 dc in the next tr, *3 ch, 1 dc in the next tr*; join with a sl in the first dc(12 small loops)
Round 3: 1 sl around the first loop, make a group of 3 trebles(to make a pointy group, don't finish each treble before you have made all three of them(does this even make a sense?)), make 3 ch between each group; join like 1. round..

Change colour
Round 4: ch 2 and 3 tr around any loop, keep making 4 tr around every loop (12 loops); join like 1. round

Change colour
Round 5: Look at the picture! Make 1 dc, ch 4, 1 dc.. make 2 more loops. After 3 loops you do the corner; by ch 4, 1 dc in the same tr as the last dc. 3 more loops, a second corner.. join with a sl in the first dc
Round 6: ch 2, 3 tr in the first loop, 4 tr in each loop all the way around.. In each corner: 3 dtr, ch3, 3 dtr; join like the 1. round.

Make sure you look at the picture as you go along. I've never written an english(american?) crochet pattern before..! It's a mess.. I know, still hope you can figure it out.. ;) Let me know if there's any changes that should be done to the pattern.. Good Luck!

Beas blanket

2007-12-02T01:21:00.001+01:00

Baby blanket crocheted from the center, in one piece(same as the blue/green one from my last post). No sewing or crocheting together of any kind, other than weaving in the ends of course..

I used Trysilgarn(worsted weight), and a 3 mm hook. The hook seems to be a bit on the small side, as the blanket came out a bit stiff.. but I like it this way(it's a blanket to wear on top of the baby stroller, not to cuddle the baby in..) The size: ca 60x80 cm(hopefully big enough for a stroller??)

There's not really a pattern for this blanket, I just crocheted along.. You start in the center and crochet forth and back until you want to change colour.. Make a 90 degreese turn and crochet a few stitches before you change your colour..

An example:
1. Start by ch 10. Make 8 dc(the first 3 ch makes the first dc).
2. Ch 2 and turn to the "other side(back)" of the blanket.. Make one dc in every dc from the first round(8dc). Keep doing this until you want to change colour ;)
3. Ch 2, but don't turn to the other side! You will now do the 90 degreese turn, and make a few dc, before you change your colour. Keep crocheting with the new colour until you get to the end of the row.
4. Ch 2 and turn. Work your way back over the previous row. Ch 2 and turn again.. Do this until you want to change colour again... and keep on until you think your blanket is big enough.. :)
5. I finished of by making to rounds of chain stitches around the entire blanket..

I find it hard to write crochet patterns in English. If you have any questions, please ask.. and I will try to help :) It might help looking at the pictures..

Winter/spring garment

2007-12-02T00:54:00.000+01:00

Yarn: Smart from SandnesGarn(2 skeins).
Needles: 4 mm.
Size: 4-8 years old

Hat:
CO 24x4 st. K2, p2 for ca. 18 cm. Decrease by purling every 2 purled st together. Knit 3 rounds. Knit every 2 knitted st together. Knit 2 rounds. Knit together 2 st all the way around. Knit 1 round. Pull the tread thru the st and weave in ends.

Fingerless mittens:
CO 8x4 st. K2, p2 for 30 rows. Make a opening for the thumb by knitting 10 rows back and forth. Finish of with 10 rows in rounds. Bind off, and weave in ends.

Head band:
CO 12 st. Knit back and forth for ca. 2x17 cm. Knit or sew together.